BWArchery

For the archery coach planning to commence his coaching programme whether on a one-on-one basis or a group session, one must first acquire the appropriate teaching equipment and know all the component names and set them up correctly, ready for the first lesson.

Establishing Class Size

It is important, especially on the first day, to pay close attention to each archer to ensure safety. Each coach should not have too many in any one group, say 5 beginners facing one target, taking care to ensure that each bow is shot one at a time so they will not clash and break.

With limited funds, it is not always necessary to provide one set for each archer,   Two or even three archery beginners can share one bow per session.  Also, the sessions can be timed on an hourly basis, with groups taking turns.  In this way, archers don’t waste too much time waiting on a shared bow.

Equipment for Coaching

The basic bow used for group sessions needs to be of the cheapest and most rugged type, as wear and tear under rough or careless handling is prevalent. See my article How to Choose Archery Equipment.

• Bow lengths- common average is 66” and 68” which cover most archers.  The 66” is for those using arrows 28” and under, and 68” is for those shooting arrows over 28”.
• Bow weights-16 and 18 lbs for the weaker beginners are recommended and 20/22 lbs for the adults.

Expect a short life span for the limbs.  Broken pairs that may have a surviving limb can be mixed and matched. Therefore one bow can have two top limbs or two bottom limbs fixed onto a handle, or even a top limb fixed at the bottom end.  This can be done so long as the weights are close and the lengths are the same. Choose their position based on the tiller reading: the one with the larger tiller difference (distance between string and bow) is for the top position.

The handle –  Archers are assigned left or right according to their predetermined master eye.  A check for the ‘master eye’ must be done before the lesson begins.

Initial Tuning of Bow

1. TILLER CHECK: String up the bow and measure the “static tiller” reading-in fig #1, “A” is usually longer than “B”, so that A-B is usually 4 to 9 mm more at the top.  Some new poorly made beginner’s bows do have a reverse reading.  In such a case, just invert the limbs
2. BRACE HEIGHT (also called the fistmele height or string height): measurement from deepest part of bow grip to string for “66 bow, should be about 8 ¼ “, plus or minus ¼ “ for the thicker grip section of the wooden handle riser.  For 68” bows it should read 8 ½ , plus or minus ¼ “.  Likewise for shorter bows of 64”, it should be 8” and for 70” bows it should be 8 ¾ “.  Excessively high brace will break the bow sooner.  But if too low, the bow when shot, the string will strike the archer’s wrist and the bow is unstable at the same time.  Twist and untwist the bowstring to shorten or lengthen the string.  Twist the string anti-clock for right hand bows.  And clockwise for left hand bows, as otherwise servings will come loose.
3. NOCKING POINT:  using a bow gauge (also called string gauge ot fistmele gauge) resting on the arrow rest, tie and glue a mark 6mm above the 0 degrees zero position.  This is the lower nocking point.  Insert an arrow onto the string and mark off the top nocking point-usually about 11mm from the zero position.
4. BOWSTRING:  preference for Dacron material of 12 strands, to cushion the shock of “dry-fire”, when the bow is shot without a proper arrow discharge.  Wax the loops regularly to lubricate for extended life span.
5. ARROWS:  to match the bows, are usually left uncut at the longest lengths for safe usage by archers having varying draw lengths.  This way too, a stiffer spined “larger” arrow may be used for longer life span.A 1716 spine is recommended, can still be discharged with reasonably straight flight with the lower weight bows used, due to extended length. (About 29”) The more suitable 1616will be fragile.For taller archers, the stock length is longer when 1916 shafts are applied (about 32”). If arrows are to be fletched, use the larger fletches for stability and to slow down the shot for easier arrow search. (3” vanes preferred).  For gyroscopic effect, slant the fletching angle a bit more.  About 2 to 3 degrees to the right, for RH archers.  This also slows down the shot effectively.

Initial lesson

Coaches of beginners must strive to make the first few lessons interesting, easy going, and fun to engage in. The beginners should not get hurt on the bow arms, nor spend lots of time searching for arrows that have missed the target.

• The Targets should be placed near with a large face –say 10 metres only.
• The lesson begins with the coach demonstrating the technique he wants to use.  In this instance do NOT have any target face on the target.  This way the beginners are able to closely observe the form being demonstrated.  When a face is put on, invariably, all eyes will turn to the target on the release, when really the demonstrator needs them to see his release motion.  Putting a face on would thus defeat the purpose of the demonstration.
• • STEP #1  The Straight Stance –
    The placement of the two feet, straddling the shooting line and in line to the target. Disadvantage is a strained neck; bow-arm hit may be likely; visually distorted for those wearing eye-glass. The Closed Stance –necessary for chest clearance for ladies and larger built adults, allowing the string to be away from the front of the chest. The Open Stance –as used in advanced archeryAbout a 15 degree off-set –to get arm clearance.
  • STEP #2 –The Bow Grip-
    Essentially it is the support of the bow handle and not actually ‘gripping’ the bow, with first or second finger touching the handle lightly, and using a finger sling to prevent the bow falling off on release of the string, while allowing the bow to jump a little forward on the release. Forming the bow-hand: hold out a stretched hand vertically, then face it down, and ‘break’ the wrist. This gives a low holding position, with knuckles 45 degrees to the handle held vertically, and the last two fingers must not touch the bow-grip.  The force of the bow grip will sit at the top of the palm between the base of the thumb and the first finger. Ensure wrist is not held too far off centre nor too inwards into the bow-line.
  • Step #3 –String Hand-
    In the normal string hand, first finger is above the nocked arrow and the second and third finger are below the nock.  Both have the string at the first joint, with the fingers forming a 90 degrees hook, with knuckles and wrist flat in line. In a variation of this form, a fun shooting technique for beginners has all three fingers placed about 3 finger spaces below the nock. At this point, we are at a pre-draw position –bow/arrow pointing 45 degrees to the ground, aligned to the target.
  • STEP #4 –The Draw
    Breathe in and raise the bow up high above the face, and lower it while breathing out a little, to lower the shoulders.  Bring the nock to the eye, while aiming along the whole length of the shaft to the centre of the target. Should at any time, the coach notices any flaw in the draw form, the archer must be told to ‘let-down’, meaning that a controlled reduction of the string force.  For safety sake, always place a hand against the string, and another against the bow below the grip, in case of accidental discharge of the nocked arrow.
  • STEP #5 – Establish a light Ancher
    At this moment, a partial light ‘anchor’ is achieved, with thumb side of palm touching the face. (The normal anchor against jaw/chin line is not in effect.)
  • STEP #6 –The Release-
    While the string elbow is now horizontal or slightly raised, turn it backwards gently, while the left shoulder is pushed forward to balance out.  The release is effected by relaxing the 3 fingers.
  • STEP #7 – The Follow Through-
    As the bow flings forward, the string hand moves past the neck, limp.  This is the follow through, held 2 or 3 seconds.
  • STEP #8 – Post Follow Through
    Analysis of the shot, and physical/ stamina recovery follows. In the analysis, the archer can now feel the action of his musculature, in particular the back of the shoulders and arms. Rehearse the next shot, before attempting the next shot.
• A ‘fun shoot’ technique often used in archery camps and funfair stalls, is an option for coaches trying to teach an easy way to shoot the bow for the first time. It is easy to perform and mostly will not cause the string to hit the bow-arm.  The technique has been highlighted in earlier chapter of my coaching manual. Here, the bow is not drawn fully to the jaw/chin anchor, thus the arrow is fired from a lower draw weight.  Also the anchor line is to the aiming eye, so that the string is well away from the bow arm, saving it from being hit!